Simple setup

Here are some examples of how to assemble drip irrigation parts at the start of the circuit, the outdoor faucet.

The top photo shows parts that are essential. The Anti-syphon Valve (V4) prevents dirty irrigation water from backing into your domestic water supply. This valve is usually required by municipal bylaw and is a good idea for any drip irrigation circuit.

The Pressure Regulator (PR2) reduces the water pressure for the drip irrigation circuit. All drip parts are designed to work at lower water pressures than in most homes. A 150-mesh T Filter (FLR3) is the minimum requirement to keep sediment and scale from clogging the small openings in drippers and other parts. To clean the screen, unscrew the lower cap and the filter screen will drop out for flushing. The Swivel Adaptor (FC16) simply connects the hose threads on the filter to the 1/2" Tubing.

Tighten all connections by hand only. Never use glue on a drip irrigation connection. You want to be able to take a connection apart later if necessary. Anti-syphon Valves and Pressure Regulators may weep small quantities of water when in operation. That's normal and one reason why drip irrigation components should never be used indoors.

Add a digital timer

Now we are getting sophisticated. Add a battery-powered digital timer and you can program the exact time of day that the water turns on and off. Set it and forget it. The timer will turn on and off automatically. You can also change the drip irrigation schedule easily at any time using simple push buttons and an informative screen display. You can skip days or manually override the schedule without disturbing the automatic program you set. A digital timer takes the work out of watering. And plants love being watered on a precise and regular schedule.

We could have installed the anti-syphon below the timer. The important point to remember is that the pressure regulator should always be installed below the timer so that the regulator is not under high household water pressures all hours of the day.

Note the manifold at the top which permits us to connect garden hoses to the faucet without disturbing our drip irrigation circuit. A total of three of the outlets on the manifold have shutoff valves.

Add a Y Filter

The next best step is to replace our T Filter with a Y Filter. This filter is larger and will last longer between cleanings. Especially important if you are using well water which often has more sediment than does municipal water. You can flush the filter screen by opening the cap at the bottom and turning the water on or you can unscrew the screen housing of the filter and remove the screen for cleaning.

We stock Y Filters with hose threads at the inlet and outlet (FLR4) shown at the left so that the filter threads onto the Anti-syphon Valve (V4) and the Pressure Regulator (PR2). The Swivel Adaptor (FC16) is last on the faucet assembly and connects the Pressure Regulator to the 1/2" tubing.

The timer is left out of the photo to the left but it would normally mount between the anti-syphon and the Y filter.

Cleaning the filter is quick and easy - you don't need to remove the filter body from the other drip irrigation components.

A Y filter is taller than a T filter. This setup requires more vertical height from the faucet to the ground. Some faucets are installed close to the ground and there may not be enough room to install our Y filter setup so we will talk about using a standpipe in another How-To article.

Go to Part 2, Connect the Tubing